Patternmaking for Underwear Design by Kristina Shin is a technical guide focusing on the construction of foundation garments, lingerie, and sleepwear. The text covers pattern drafting, draping, and flat patternmaking techniques specifically for intimate apparel, including detailed approaches to underwired bras. Access the 1st edition on Patternmaking For Underwear Design (1st Edition) | PDF
"Patternmaking for Underwear Design" by Kristina Shin is a comprehensive guide focusing on the technical construction of lingerie, foundation garments, and loungewear. The text details techniques for drafting patterns based on individual measurements to ensure precise fit, covering material selection, pattern markings, and grading processes. For more details, visit Scribd . Underwear Patternmaking Guide | PDF | Corset - Scribd
Review: Patternmaking For Underwear Design Author: Jennifer Lynn Fairbanks (Common Association) Target Audience: Fashion students, lingerie startups, and technical designers. The Core Premise Most patternmaking books focus on outerwear—dresses, jackets, and trousers. Underwear, however, operates under a completely different set of physics due to the intimate fit, the high-stretch nature of fabrics (power mesh, lace, jersey), and the necessity for comfort against sensitive skin. This resource fills a significant gap in the market by treating intimate apparel as a specialized engineering discipline rather than just "small clothes." Key Strengths 1. The Science of Stretch The standout feature of this resource is the breakdown of negative ease . Unlike a dress that hangs on the body, underwear must cling to it. The text excels at teaching the calculation of "reduction percentages."
Why it’s useful: It moves beyond guessing. It teaches how to measure fabric stretch and translate that directly into pattern adjustments, ensuring the final garment stays up without cutting off circulation. Patternmaking For Underwear Design.pdf
2. Foundations and Blocks The guide typically builds from the ground up, starting with the basic bodysuit block and the basic panty block.
Why it’s useful: It provides a "sloper" or "block" foundation that you can adapt. Instead of drafting from scratch every time, you learn to manipulate the block to create briefs, boy shorts, thongs, and bras. This is the industry-standard workflow for efficiency.
3. Construction Integration Patternmaking for underwear cannot be separated from construction. The resource usually details the integration of elastics, wires, and closures. Patternmaking for Underwear Design by Kristina Shin is
Why it’s useful: A pattern is useless if you don't account for elastic width and seam allowance. This text typically includes specific chapters on drafting for elastic application (turned top vs. exposed elastic), which is a common stumbling block for beginners.
4. Sizing and Grading Underwear sizing is notoriously tricky (S/M/L vs. cup sizes).
Why it’s useful: The guide often includes detailed grading rules. It explains how to size up a pattern while maintaining the correct wire angle and bridge width (the center front of the bra), which often gets distorted when using standard grading software. The text details techniques for drafting patterns based
Potential Drawbacks
Visual Density: Technical patternmaking books are often text-heavy. If you are a visual learner, you may find the density of written instructions regarding "trueing" lines and dart manipulation overwhelming without supplementary video tutorials. Fabric Specificity: The drafting formulas are often based on specific stretch percentages (e.g., 75% stretch). If you are using a fabric with different properties, you must know how to adapt the math, which can be intimidating for absolute beginners.